Peru Travel Guide

Peru is one of South America's most geographically diverse countries. In a single trip you can stand on a Pacific beach, ride a train through high Andean passes above 4,000 m, and paddle a tributary of the Amazon. Layered on top of that geography is one of the richest cultural histories on the continent. From pre-Inca civilisations such as the Moche, Nazca, Chavín and Wari, through the Inca Empire centred on Cusco, to nearly three centuries of Spanish colonial influence visible in every cathedral and plaza.

For couples on a low-to-medium budget, Peru offers a strong mix of affordability, variety and infrastructure. Domestic flights and long-distance buses connect the main travel hubs (Lima, Cusco, Arequipa, Puno) reliably, and Cusco in particular has a dense network of tour operators, hostels, mid-range hotels and restaurants built around the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

Peru is shaped roughly as a long strip along the Pacific coast, with the Andes running north-south through the middle and the Amazon basin spreading east. The main travel corridor runs Lima → Paracas/Huacachina → Nazca → Arequipa → Colca → Puno (Titicaca) → Cusco → Sacred Valley → Machu Picchu. Sometimes with an Amazon detour from Cusco (Puerto Maldonado) or from Iquitos in the north.

Roughly speaking the country divides into three travel zones:

• Costa (coast): Lima, Paracas, Nazca, Huacachina, Mancora. Desert and ocean, sea-level temperatures, easy logistics.
• Sierra (Andes): Arequipa, Colca, Puno, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Huaraz. High altitude, dry sunny days, cold nights, the heart of the cultural sites.
• Selva (Amazon): Puerto Maldonado (south, accessed from Cusco) and Iquitos (north, accessed only by flight or river). Humid, tropical, wildlife-focused.

Peru's seasons differ sharply by region. The Andes and Amazon share a dry season from roughly May to September and a wet season from December to March. The Pacific coast is largely arid year-round, but Lima and the central coast are blanketed by the garúa mist from roughly May to October, while the northern coast (Mancora and around) stays warm and sunny most of the year.

Month-by-month at a glance

Month-by-Month Overview

Month	Season	Best Regions	Crowds	Prices	Rating
January	Wet	Coast (Lima, Paracas); highlands very wet	🟢 Low	🟢 Low	⭐⭐
February	Wet (peak)	Coast only; Inca Trail closed, landslide risk	🟢 Very Low	🟢 Lowest	⭐⭐
March	Late Wet	Coast, northern beaches; Cusco still wet	🟢 Low	🟢 Low	⭐⭐
April	Transition	Cusco clearing, Sacred Valley, Lake Titicaca	🟡 Rising	🟡 Rising	⭐⭐⭐⭐
May	Dry begins	Everywhere; clear skies, green landscapes	🟡 Moderate	🟡 Moderate	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
June	Dry	Everywhere; Inti Raymi (Cusco), cold nights	🔴 High	🔴 High	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
July	Dry	Machu Picchu, Cusco, Amazon; peak season	🔴 Very High	🔴 Peak	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
August	Dry	Highlands, Amazon, trekking; still peak	🔴 Very High	🔴 Peak	⭐⭐⭐⭐
September	Dry (late)	Everywhere; shoulder value, fewer crowds	🟡 Moderate	🟡 High	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
October	Transition	Highlands, coast; first rains returning	🟡 Moderate	🟡 Moderate	⭐⭐⭐⭐
November	Wet begins	Coast, northern Peru; highlands getting wet	🟢 Low	🟢 Low	⭐⭐⭐
December	Wet	Coast, Lima; highlands wet but holiday crowds	🟡 High	🟡 High	⭐⭐⭐

For most travellers, May, June, September and early October are the strongest windows. Dry weather in the highlands, clear views around Machu Picchu, and noticeably thinner crowds than July–August peak. Couples comfortable with afternoon showers can save significantly by travelling in March or November on the shoulders of the wet season.

Climate & Weather

Three broad climate zones. Arid Pacific coast, cool Andean highlands and humid tropical Amazon. Altitude matters more than season. Cusco at 3,399 m and Puno at 3,827 m have cold nights year-round, while Lima at sea level rarely sees true heat.

The single most useful rule for Peru is this. Altitude beats season. A sunny dry-season afternoon in Cusco can still drop below freezing once the sun sets. The temperature swing between day and night in the Andes is often larger than the swing between summer and winter.

Seasons & Temperatures

Choosing between dry season and green season is the single biggest planning decision for a Peru trip.

Dry season (May–September)

• Pros: Clear blue skies in the Andes; reliable Machu Picchu views; safe trekking conditions on the Inca Trail and Salkantay; Amazon river levels lower and wildlife concentrated around remaining water.
• Cons: Highest prices and most crowds, especially July–August; Inca Trail permits sell out 3–4 months ahead; Lima is at its grey, foggy worst.

Green season (November–April)

• Pros: Roughly 30–40% lower prices on lodges and tours; landscapes lush and green; Lima sees its best beach weather (Dec–Mar); excellent for photography in the Sacred Valley between rain showers.
• Cons: Daily afternoon rain in Cusco and the Amazon; some trekking routes muddy or impassable; February closure of the classic Inca Trail; risk of landslides on mountain roads.

Shoulder months

April, May, October and November typically hit the sweet spot: shoulder-season prices, still-green landscapes, mostly-dry days in the highlands, and noticeably thinner crowds than the June–August peak.

Average Temperatures

Indicative day/night averages by city across the year. Coastal cities are stable; Andean cities have a huge day–night swing but small seasonal swing; the Amazon stays hot year-round.

Note the reverse pattern between coast and highlands: Lima is coldest and foggiest in July–August (Peru's mid-winter), exactly when Cusco and the Sacred Valley are at their sunniest and most popular.

Most Peruvians are Catholic, but Andean syncretism is everywhere: the Virgin Mary blends with Pachamama (Mother Earth) in many highland communities. Peru’s festival calendar is one of the richest in South America.

Public holidays and major festivals

Peru offers diverse landscapes and experiences across its regions.

Peru holds more archaeological sites than any country in the Americas, landscapes that span from sea-level desert to 6,000-metre peaks within a few hours’ drive, and a culinary scene that has become a destination in itself. The headline is Machu Picchu, but the country’s depth goes far beyond one iconic ruin.

• Machu Picchu: The Inca citadel above the Urubamba Valley — still extraordinary despite the crowds, especially at sunrise from the Sun Gate
• Sacred Valley & Cusco: Inca ruins, colonial churches, and Andean markets strung along the valley that was the heartland of the Inca Empire
• Lake Titicaca: The world’s highest navigable lake at 3,812 m — floating Uros islands, Taquile textiles, and a sky that feels impossibly close
• Amazon Basin: Manu and Tambopata national reserves offer some of the most biodiverse rainforest on earth
• Colca Canyon: Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon — Andean condors riding thermals above terraced hillsides

Beyond Machu Picchu: archaeological sites worth the detour

Peru is one of the most multicultural countries in Latin America. Spanish is the working language everywhere, but Quechua is the first language of around 13% of the population and Aymara of around 2%, especially in rural Cusco, Puno and Apurímac. A few words of either (allillanchu = a Quechua greeting, roughly “are you well?”. sulpayki = thank you) go a long way in markets and homestays.

Etiquette

• Greeting: a handshake is standard in business. One cheek kiss between women, or between a woman and a man who already know each other.
• Photography: always ask before photographing people, especially in indigenous communities. A small tip (S/ 2–5, ≈ €0.50–1.25) is usual if someone is in traditional dress and you take a portrait.
• Markets: friendly bargaining is expected. Start around 70% of the asking price and meet near 80–85%. Don't push hard on tiny amounts. The seller usually needs the difference more than you.
• Churches and sacred sites: cover shoulders and knees, remove hats. Photography is restricted inside many churches.
• Coca leaves: chewing coca and drinking mate de coca tea is legal and traditional in Peru. It helps with altitude. Do not attempt to take coca leaves home. They are illegal in most countries.

Food & Cuisine

Peruvian food is one of the major reasons to visit on its own. The country's three geographies (coast, mountains, jungle) produce three very different culinary traditions, and Lima is the meeting point for all of them.

Signature dishes to try

• Ceviche: Raw fish cured in lime juice with red onion, chíli, coriander and sweet potato. The national dish. Best at lunch. Cevicherías traditionally close by mid-afternoon. Typical S/ 30–55 (≈ €7.50–14).
• Lomo saltado: Stir-fried beef with onions, tomatoes and soy sauce served with rice and chips. The classic example of Chinese-Peruvian (chifa) fusion. S/ 25–45 (≈ €6–11).
• Ají de gallina: Shredded chicken in a creamy yellow chili sauce with potato and rice. Comfort food. S/ 20–35 (≈ €5–9).
• Anticuchos: Marinated beef-heart skewers, the classic Peruvian street food. Best in the early evening. S/ 8–15 (≈ €2–4) per skewer.
• Pollo a la brasa: The Peruvian rotisserie chicken, a national obsession, served with chips and salads and the green ají sauce.
• Causa limeña: Layered cold dish of yellow potato terrine with tuna, chicken or avocado.
• Cuy (guinea pig): Traditional Andean protein, usually roasted whole. Most often eaten in the Sacred Valley and around Cusco.
• Rocoto relleno: An Arequipa speciality of stuffed spicy peppers baked with cheese.

Drinks

• Pisco sour: The national cocktail: pisco (a grape brandy), lime juice, egg white, sugar syrup and bitters.
• Chicha morada: A sweet non-alcoholic drink made from purple corn, pineapple skin and cinnamon. Served everywhere.
• Mate de coca: Coca-leaf tea. Mild stimulant. Standard welcome drink at altitude.
• Inca Kola: Bright yellow Peruvian soft drink with a bubblegum-like flavour. Outsells Coca-Cola domestically.

Lima fine dining

Lima sits near the top of most "best food cities in the world" lists. Tasting-menu restaurants like Central, Maido and Kjolle compete for the World's 50 Best slots and book out 1–3 months ahead. A more accessible mid-range scene exists in Barranco, with cevicherías and modern Peruvian restaurants running roughly S/ 80–160 (≈ €20–40) per person for a full meal with drinks.

Trekking is one of Peru's headline activities. Most of the famous treks are in the Cusco region, but the Cordillera Blanca around Huaraz arguably offers Peru's most spectacular alpine scenery.

Top Hikes

Permits and bookings

The classic 4-day Inca Trail is the only trek that requires advance permits, issued through licensed operators. Roughly 500 permits per day are released, including porters and guides. Meaning about 200 trekkers actually start each day. June–August sells out 3–6 months ahead. The shoulder months sell out 2–3 months ahead. All other treks (Salkantay, Lares, Choquequirao, Santa Cruz) can usually be booked in Cusco or Huaraz a few days before departure.

Best season

Dry season (May–September) is the safest and most reliable for any multi-day trek. April and October are good shoulder months. Trekking December–March is possible but landslide risk increases. The Inca Trail itself closes for the whole of February.

Activities

Peru's coastline, lakes and rivers offer a surprising range of activities for a country usually associated with mountains.

• Ballestas Islands wildlife boat tour (Paracas). Sea lions, Humboldt penguins and dense seabird colonies. 2-hour boat trip every morning. S/ 65–100 (≈ €16–25) per person plus a small park fee.
• Surfing (Máncora, Huanchaco, Lima). Máncora is the warm-water, year-round option in the north. Huanchaco near Trujillo is the historic home of the caballito de totora reed boats. Lima's beaches (Punta Roca, Costa Verde) work well for intermediate surfers Apr–Nov.
• Lake Titicaca homestays (Puno). Rather than a day trip, an overnight on Amantaní or Taquile islands includes a boat journey, meals with a Quechua family and an evening folkloric music gathering.
• Amazon river trips. Both Puerto Maldonado and Iquitos lodges build their wildlife programmes around long-boat trips on tributaries and oxbow lakes. Pink river dolphins, giant otters and caimans are typical highlights from Iquitos.
• White-water rafting (Río Urubamba near Cusco). Half-day Class III runs in the Sacred Valley. The bigger multi-day Apurímac and Tambopata expeditions are for experienced rafters.
• Sandboarding (Huacachina). Not strictly water, but worth mentioning here. Late-afternoon dune-buggy and sand-boarding tours run S/ 60–100 (≈ €15–25).

Off the Beaten Path

Peru is much more than Machu Picchu. A few destinations that consistently reward travellers who have a third or fourth week to spare. Or who want to skip the headline crowds.

Peru ranks among the world's top biodiversity countries. The Amazon basin (with Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado as access points) holds the heaviest concentration of species, but the Andes and Pacific coast also have unique wildlife.

• Amazon basin: jaguars, giant otters, pink river dolphins, harpy eagles, anacondas, capybaras, macaws and parrots at clay licks. Tambopata (from Puerto Maldonado) is the easiest first jungle; Manu and Pacaya-Samiria (from Iquitos) are the deeper, wilder options.
• Andean condor: the world's largest flying bird (~3 m wingspan). Most reliable viewing from the Cruz del Cóndor lookout in Colca Canyon, typically between 8:00 and 10:00 in dry season.
• Camelids. Peru is home to all four South American camelids. Llamas and alpacas are domesticated and common. Vicuñas (the wild ancestor of alpacas) are protected and seen on the high plateau between Arequipa and Puno. Guanacos are rarer and largely in the south.
• Ballestas Islands. Humboldt penguins and sea lion colonies year-round. The surrounding Paracas reserve hosts flamingos seasonally.
• Spectacled bear. South America's only bear species. Small populations in the cloud forests near Chachapoyas and around the Manu reserve.
• Marine life. The cold Humboldt current produces some of the world's richest fisheries. Sea lions, dolphins and migratory whales can be spotted from the central and northern coast.

The standard southern Peru circuit, genuinely fitting 13 nights of sleep into 14 days. Day 1 is arrival only and day 14 is departure only, leaving 12 days on the ground for actual sights. Hits every headline Andean stop and climbs the altitude profile in steps. Lima (sea level) → Arequipa (2,335 m) → Colca (3,200 m) → Puno (3,827 m) → Cusco (3,399 m) → Sacred Valley (2,792 m) → Aguas Calientes (2,040 m). Six base changes total, no overnight trek required, and a built-in rest day in Cusco after the long Puno–Cusco bus. Average fitness is enough. Just respect the altitude on days 5–10.

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Lima

Land at Jorge Chávez International, taxi or pre-booked transfer to a hotel in Miraflores or Barranco (~45 min depending on traffic). Settle in, short walk along the Malecón if energy allows, early dinner at a neighbourhood ceviche spot. No sightseeing scheduled. The long-haul flight wins today.

Day 2: Lima

Full day in the capital at sea level. Morning at the Larco Museum for the pre-Columbian collection, lunch in Miraflores, afternoon food walk through Barranco with a stop at Huaca Pucllana. Use this day to eat as much ceviche, anticuchos and pisco as you can. Andean food gets simpler from here.

Day 3: Fly Lima → Arequipa

Morning flight, ~1.5 hrs. Check into a hotel near the Plaza de Armas, then a slow afternoon. Cathedral, Yanahuara viewpoint, a coca tea on a rooftop terrace. First night at 2,335 m. Expect mildly shorter breath, no real symptoms.

Day 4: Arequipa

Santa Catalina monastery in the morning (allow 2–3 hrs. It's a city within the city), lunch of rocoto relleno at a picantería, afternoon stroll through San Lázaro. Second acclimatisation day at 2,335 m before the Colca climb, so keep the walking gentle.

Days 5–6: Colca Canyon

Two-day overnight tour from Arequipa: drive up via Patapampa pass, overnight in Chivay (3,200 m) with optional hot springs, then a sunrise visit to Cruz del Cóndor on day 6 to watch the condors ride the thermals. Back in Arequipa by late afternoon for one more night at 2,335 m.

Day 7: Bus Arequipa → Puno

Scheduled day bus, ~6 hrs through the altiplano with views of vicuñas and lagoons. Arrive Puno mid-afternoon at 3,827 m. The highest point of the trip. Gentle evening only. A slow walk along the lake shore, an early dinner, more coca tea. No alcohol tonight.

Day 8: Lake Titicaca

Full-day boat tour from Puno harbour. The floating Uros reed islands in the morning, then Taquile island for lunch and a walk up to the village above. Back to Puno for a second night. The lake is the slowest, gentlest activity day of the trip, which is exactly what 3,827 m calls for.

Day 9: Scenic day bus Puno → Cusco

Tourist bus (Inka Express or PeruHop), ~10 hrs but broken up by stops. Pukara museum, lunch at the La Raya pass (4,335 m, brief photo stop only), the Sistine-chapel-of-the-Andes church at Andahuaylillas. Arrive Cusco evening at 3,399 m. Slightly lower than Puno, which helps.

Day 10: Cusco rest day

Mandatory easy day after the long bus. Plaza de Armas, Qorikancha temple, San Pedro market for lunch, an afternoon coffee in San Blas. No Sacsayhuamán hike, no Rainbow Mountain. Save the legs for what's coming.

Day 11: Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo

Move base out of Cusco mid-morning. Stops at Pisac (ruins above the village, then the artisan market), Maras salt pans and the circular Moray terraces. Sleep tonight in Ollantaytambo (2,792 m). Lower altitude, better sleep, and you wake up next to tomorrow's train station.

Day 12: Ollantaytambo → Aguas Calientes

Morning at the Ollantaytambo fortress before the day-trippers arrive, lunch in town, then the afternoon train (PeruRail or Inca Rail) ~1.5 hrs down the Urubamba valley to Aguas Calientes (2,040 m). Pick up your Machu Picchu entry tickets, early dinner, bed early.

Day 13: Machu Picchu → Cusco → Lima

First shuttle bus up to the citadel at 5:30 (~25 min switchbacks), 2–3 hrs on a timed circuit, back down to Aguas Calientes for lunch. Afternoon train to Ollantaytambo, transfer ~1.5 hrs to Cusco airport, evening flight Cusco → Lima (~1.5 hrs). Sleep at an airport hotel.

Day 14: Departure

Pure departure day. Breakfast, transfer to the international terminal at Jorge Chávez, flight home. The airport-hotel sleep last night exists precisely so today is not a panic. If Machu Picchu trains delayed yesterday, this is your buffer.

The route works equally well in reverse (fly to Cusco first), but the southbound version above is gentler on the body because the altitude climbs in steps rather than jumping straight to 3,399 m on day 2. If you're not confident at high altitude, swap the Lake Titicaca leg for an extra night in the Sacred Valley. Puno is the highest sleep of the trip and the hardest on those who react to thin air. Best window is May to September (dry season). January and February see Inca Trail closures and unreliable Machu Picchu weather. Skip the Paracas / Huacachina / Nazca coastal leg unless you have a third week. See Route B.

25 days on the ground. Arrival on day 1, departure on day 25, with 24 nights of sleep in between. This is the dense version. Coastal desert, the southern Andes circuit, the classic 4-day Inca Trail, and the Amazon basin in one go. The altitude profile climbs in deliberate steps so the body has time to adjust. Lima (sea level) → Arequipa (2,335 m) → Colca (3,200 m) → Puno (3,827 m) → Cusco (3,399 m), and only after several days above 2,500 m does the route hit the Inca Trail's three passes over 4,000 m. Expect to be reasonably fit, to walk a lot, and to spend roughly half the nights at altitude.

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Lima

Land at Jorge Chávez, transfer to Miraflores or Barranco (~45 min by taxi or authorised airport shuttle), check in and recover from the long-haul flight. No sightseeing scheduled. A light dinner near the hotel is plenty.

Day 2: Lima

Larco Museum in the morning for the pre-Columbian backbone, then a slow walk along the Malecón cliffs in Miraflores. Afternoon food tour or independent ceviche lunch in Barranco. Early night, as tomorrow is a travel day.

Day 3: Paracas

Morning bus south from Lima, ~3.5–4 hrs along the Panamericana. Afternoon at the Paracas National Reserve where the red-sand desert meets the Pacific. Sunset at La Mina or Playa Roja. Overnight in Paracas town.

Day 4: Ballestas Islands & Huacachina

Early boat tour to the Ballestas for sea lions, Humboldt penguins and dense seabird colonies (~2 hrs on the water). Midday bus on to Ica and the Huacachina desert oasis. Sunset dune-buggy ride and sandboarding session on the high dunes.

Day 5: Nazca & overnight to Arequipa

Bus Ica → Nazca (~2.5 hrs), short flight over the Nazca Lines (~30 min in a small Cessna), then board the overnight cama bus south to Arequipa, ~9–10 hrs. Sleep on the bus.

Day 6: Arequipa (rest and arrival at altitude)

Arrive Arequipa around dawn. Take it easy. This is the first jump to altitude (2,335 m) and you've just done an overnight bus. Light wander around the Plaza de Armas, an unhurried ceviche lunch, siesta. No strenuous activities.

Day 7: Arequipa

Santa Catalina monastery in the morning. Allow at least two hours for the painted alleys and cloisters. Afternoon viewpoint at Yanahuara for El Misti volcano, then dinner in the San Lázaro quarter.

Days 8–9: Colca Canyon

Two-day tour from Arequipa climbing to Chivay (3,200 m) on day 8 with stops at vicuña country and Patapampa pass (~4,910 m, brief photo stop only). Hot springs in the evening. Day 9: pre-dawn drive to Cruz del Cóndor for soaring Andean condors, then descent back through colonial villages.

Day 10: Puno & acclimatisation

Bus or train Arequipa → Puno (~6 hrs scenic). Arrive Puno (3,827 m, the highest base of the trip). Deliberately gentle evening. Walk to the malecón, early dinner, hydrate. No alcohol tonight.

Day 11: Lake Titicaca with island homestay

Boat from Puno to the floating Uros reed islands, then onward to Amantaní for an overnight homestay with a local family. Gentle late-afternoon hike to the Pachatata viewpoint for sunset over the lake. Traditional dinner and a very quiet night.

Day 12: Taquile & scenic bus to Cusco

Morning visit to Taquile island for the weaving cooperatives, lunch on the terraces, boat back to Puno. Afternoon onward leg via Inka Express or PeruHop, ~10 hrs with cultural stops at Pukara, La Raya pass and the Andahuaylillas “Sistine Chapel of the Andes”. Arrive Cusco late evening.

Day 13: Cusco (acclimatisation)

First full day at 3,399 m after the long bus. Keep it easy. Wander San Blas, the Plaza de Armas, the cathedral. Coca tea, plenty of water, no hikes. Early night.

Day 14: Cusco

Sacsayhuamán fortress and the Q'enqo and Tambomachay sites on a half-day Cusco ruins ticket. Afternoon cooking class or San Pedro market. Brief your Inca Trail operator and pack the trek duffel this evening.

Day 15: Sacred Valley (Pisac & Maras / Moray)

Drive into the Sacred Valley (~1 hr from Cusco, descending to ~2,800 m. Easier on the lungs). Pisac ruins and market in the morning, the Maras salt pans and the Moray agricultural terraces in the afternoon. Overnight in Urubamba or Ollantaytambo.

Day 16: Ollantaytambo & trek briefing

Morning at the Ollantaytambo fortress. The best-preserved Inca town still inhabited today. Light afternoon, early dinner, repack. Tomorrow starts at dawn.

Days 17–20: Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The 4-day, 3-night trek from Km 82 to the Sun Gate. Three high passes including Dead Woman's Pass (~4,215 m), camping at Wayllabamba, Pacaymayo and Wiñay Wayna. Arrival at Machu Picchu through Inti Punku at sunrise on day 20, then a full guided tour of the citadel before the train back to Ollantaytambo and on to Cusco. Permits must be booked through a licensed operator 5–6 months ahead for the May–September dry season, 2–3 months for the shoulder. The trail is closed every February for maintenance. Pick any other month.

Day 21: Cusco recovery

Mandatory rest day after the trek. Late breakfast, a hot shower, laundry drop-off, a long lunch in San Blas. Massage parlours in Cusco are cheap and very good after four days on the trail. Pack light for the jungle.

Days 22–24: Tambopata Amazon

Short flight Cusco → Puerto Maldonado (~45 min), then river transfer by motorised canoe to a jungle lodge inside the Tambopata reserve. Three days / two nights of canopy walks, oxbow lake canoeing for caimans and giant otters, a clay-lick visit at dawn for macaws and parrots, and night walks for tarantulas and tree frogs. Fly back to Lima on the afternoon of day 24.

Day 25: Departure

Final morning in Lima for any last ceviche or souvenir run in Miraflores, then transfer to Jorge Chávez for the international flight home. Allow a generous buffer: Lima traffic is unforgiving and the airport is on the wrong side of the city.

Route B is dense but workable in this order because every altitude step is gradual and the Inca Trail sits late, after at least eight nights above 2,300 m. The trip works in reverse (fly straight to Cusco, do the trek early, descend to the coast) but the body pays for it. Only do that if you've been at altitude recently. If the Amazon doesn't appeal, swap days 22–24 for Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca (night bus or short flight from Lima, then Laguna 69 at 4,600 m as a day hike from a 3,052 m base. Needs two acclimatisation days, which you've already earned by this point in the route). Avoid February entirely because of the Inca Trail closure. April–May and September–October are the sweet spots for clear weather and thinner crowds.

21 days on the ground. Arrival on day 1, departure on day 21, with 20 nights of sleep in between. This is the route for travellers who have already done the Cusco circuit, or who specifically want to skip the Machu Picchu crowds. The shape climbs from Lima (sea level) into the Cordillera Blanca at Huaraz (3,052 m, with day hikes pushing to 4,600 m), drops back to the desert coast at Trujillo (~35 m), rises again into the cloud forest around Chachapoyas (2,335 m) and Kuelap (~3,000 m), and finishes at sea level on the north-coast beaches of Máncora. Expect long bus legs, smaller regional airports, and fewer English-speaking guides than the southern circuit. Best run in the dry season (May–September) for the Cordillera Blanca.

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Lima

Land at Jorge Chávez, taxi or ride-hail to Miraflores or Barranco (~45–60 min depending on traffic). No sightseeing today. Settle in, shower, light dinner nearby, early night. Long-haul fatigue plus the altitude jumps to come make rest the priority.

Day 2: Lima

Morning walk along the Miraflores cliffs and the Malecón. Afternoon at the Larco Museum for pre-Columbian context that will pay off across the whole trip. Evening in Barranco for dinner and a first taste of Peruvian cooking.

Day 3: Lima → Huaraz

Overnight cama bus Lima → Huaraz (~8 hrs, departs evening, arrives dawn) is the gentler altitude option as the climb is gradual. The 1-hour LATAM flight to Anta (ATA) is faster but drops you straight at 3,052 m. If flying, take the earliest slot so you have a full quiet day to acclimatise.

Day 4: Huaraz acclimatisation

Mandatory rest day at 3,052 m before any hiking above 4,000 m. Wander the Plaza de Armas, the local market, the small Museo Arqueológico de Ancash. Hydrate hard, no alcohol, coca tea freely available. An easy short walk to Wilcacocha lake (3,725 m) is the standard acclimatisation outing if you want to move.

Days 5–7: Cordillera Blanca

Three full hiking days from a Huaraz base. The headline day-hike is Laguna 69 (4,600 m, ~6 hrs round trip from the trailhead, brutal but spectacular turquoise glacier lake). Pair it with Laguna Parón (4,200 m, easier) and either the Pastoruri glacier day trip or the Chavin de Huántar ruins for a non-hiking day. Fitter travellers can swap days 5–7 for the 4-day Santa Cruz trek. Use day 8 as recovery.

Day 8: Huaraz → Trujillo

Bus Huaraz → Trujillo (~8 hrs via the coast through Casma). Travel day only. Arrive late afternoon, check in, easy dinner. The drop from 3,052 m back to sea level is the body's reward after the high lakes.

Days 9–10: Trujillo & Huanchaco

Two full days on the north-coast archaeology trail. Chan Chan, the vast Chimú mud-brick capital, and the Huaca de la Luna with its painted Moche friezes are both half-day visits with a guide. Base in Huanchaco, the laid-back surf village 12 km from Trujillo. Reed fishing boats on the beach, ceviche shacks, and gentle waves for first-time surfers.

Day 11: Trujillo → Chachapoyas

The honest option here is the 1.5-hour LATAM flight Lima → Jaen via a same-day connection, then a 4-hour shared van to Chachapoyas. The overland alternative (Trujillo → Cajamarca → Chachapoyas) is 18–22 hrs broken across two days. Only worth it if you specifically want Cajamarca. Either way, today is a travel day. Nothing else scheduled.

Days 12–14: Chachapoyas, Kuelap & Gocta

Three days in the cloud forest. Day one: Kuelap fortress (~3,000–3,100 m), the stone citadel of the pre-Inca Chachapoya people, reached by a shared cable car from Nuevo Tingo. Day two: Gocta waterfall, one of the world's tallest at 771 m, ~5–6 hr round-trip hike. Day three: the sarcophagi of Karajía or the Revash mausoleums. Pick one, the other is a near-duplicate.

Day 15: Chachapoyas → Máncora

Shared van Chachapoyas → Jaen (~4 hrs), then the short LATAM hop Jaen → Piura, then a 2-hour transfer up the coast to Máncora. Long but mostly painless if you connect the flight tight. Arrive late afternoon, dinner on the beach.

Days 16–19: Máncora & the north coast

Four full days of beach recovery after two altitude blocks and a lot of bus time. Reliable surf for all levels, kitesurfing in the windy afternoons, decent seafood, and ceviche that rivals Lima for a third of the price. Optional day trip to Punta Sal or the mangroves at Tumbes if you want one active day.

Day 20: Máncora → Lima

Short transfer back to Piura and the 1.5-hour LATAM flight to Lima. Last night in Barranco. Pisco-sour bar, a proper farewell dinner, time to repack for the international flight.

Day 21: Departure

Taxi or ride-hail to Jorge Chávez (allow 60–90 min in daytime traffic, more during rush). International flight home. No new sights today. The buffer is the point.

The route also runs in reverse (Máncora first, Huaraz last), but climbing into the Cordillera Blanca at the end of a trip is harsher on the body than doing it while still fresh. The direction above is the kinder one. If you only have 17–18 days, the cleanest cut is dropping Chachapoyas entirely (lose days 11–14, fly Trujillo → Piura directly). The cloud-forest leg is the most logistically expensive part of the route and the easiest to skip without breaking the trip's shape.

Long-distance buses are the backbone of Peruvian travel. Reputable operators offer overnight cama (fully reclining) and semi-cama services between major cities. Domestic flights from Lima cut long stretches (e.g. Lima–Cusco, Lima–Iquitos) from a full day to about 90 minutes. Within cities, ride-hailing apps work in Lima, Cusco and Arequipa. Elsewhere, agreed-price taxis are standard.

Long-distance buses

Lima is the main hub. Roughly in order of reputation among travellers:

• PeruHop. Hop-on hop-off network designed for tourists with stops along the southern route (Lima → Paracas → Huacachina → Arequipa → Puno → Cusco). Hotel pickups, English-speaking guides. The most expensive but the easiest.
• Cruz del Sur. Premium operator, modern fleet, GPS tracking, online booking. The most reliable conventional bus company. Lima → Cusco overnight roughly S/ 160–280 (≈ €40–70) cama.
• Oltursa. Comparable quality to Cruz del Sur, similar prices, good night service on the Lima → Arequipa route.
• Civa / Excluciva. Mid-range. Their premium "Excluciva" service is comparable to Cruz del Sur at slightly lower price.
• Inka Express. Daytime tourist service Cusco ↔ Puno with sightseeing stops. Takes 10 hours but covers Andahuaylillas, Raqchi and La Raya pass along the way.

Approximate journey times. Lima → Cusco 20–22 hrs. Lima → Arequipa 16 hrs. Arequipa → Puno 6 hrs. Puno → Cusco 7–10 hrs.

Domestic flights

Booking 1–2 months ahead, typical fares Lima → Cusco S/ 200–400 (≈ €50–100). Carriers: LATAM (most routes, most reliable), Sky (budget), JetSMART (budget). Avoid same-day rebooking. Budget carriers in particular can be inflexible.

Trains to Machu Picchu

Two operators run the Ollantaytambo ↔ Aguas Calientes route:

• PeruRail. The original operator, three service classes: Expedition (basic), Vistadome (panoramic windows + light meal) and Hiram Bingham (luxury). Round-trip Expedition around S/ 280–520 (≈ €70–130) depending on time.
• Inca Rail. Comparable services and prices, slightly different schedule. Worth checking both when planning.

Book at least 4–6 weeks ahead for dry season. The morning early-departure trains (around 05:00–06:00) are the cheapest and least crowded option.

Within cities

• Lima: Uber, Cabify and InDriver work well. Avoid hailing yellow street taxis at night.
• Cusco: short taxi rides in the city centre are flat-rate around S/ 5–10 (≈ €1.25–2.50). Confirm before getting in.
• Arequipa: Uber and Cabify both operate. Cheap.
• Smaller towns: negotiate the price upfront. Add ~20% if it's after 22:00.

Indicative daily costs for two people sharing a private double room. Excludes international flights and big-ticket items (Inca Trail permits, Amazon lodges).

One-off "anchor" costs to plan for

• Machu Picchu entry. S/ 152 (≈ €38) standard ticket. Combined entries with Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain are higher.
• Inca Trail (4 days). US$ 700–1,000 (≈ €650–925) per person all-in.
• Salkantay trek (5 days). US$ 400–700 (≈ €370–650) per person.
• Amazon lodge (3 days/2 nights, Tambopata). US$ 400–800 (≈ €370–740) per person. Including flights from Cusco only sometimes.
• Domestic flight Lima–Cusco. S/ 200–400 (≈ €50–100) booked 1–2 months ahead.
• Nazca Lines flight. S/ 280–360 (≈ €70–90) per person.

A comfortable mid-range 14-day Peru trip for a couple, including these anchor costs and excluding international flights, typically lands around €2,500–3,500.

Money-Saving Tips

Visa

EU/EEA, UK, US, Canadian, Australian and most Latin American passport holders enter visa-free for up to 90 days within a 180-day period. The actual stamp depends on the immigration officer at entry and can be shorter. Maximum stay 183 days within 365 days. Extensions are possible at the Superintendencia Nacional de Migraciones offices in Lima and other cities. Passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the date of entry.

Money

The Peruvian sol (PEN, written S/) is the local currency, currently around 1 EUR ≈ 4.0 PEN. ATMs are widespread in Lima, Cusco, Arequipa and Puno. Rarer in smaller towns. Withdraw from bank-affiliated machines (BCP, BBVA, Interbank, Scotiabank) inside lobbies or malls rather than freestanding street ATMs. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted in cities. Carry small notes for rural areas, markets and tips. US dollars are accepted at many hotels and tour operators but always at a slightly worse rate than soles.

Altitude sickness

Above 2,500 m roughly half of all visitors experience some symptoms (headache, nausea, broken sleep, breathlessness on exertion). Above 3,500 m the risk rises sharply. Key tactics.

• If flying into Cusco, plan a slow first day. Sleeping the first night in the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo, ~2,800 m) is gentler than the city itself.
• Drink plenty of water. Avoid alcohol on day 1–2.
• Mate de coca (coca tea) is the local remedy. Helps mild symptoms.
• Discuss preventive medication (acetazolamide is the generic standard) with a doctor before travel. It works but requires a prescription and has side effects.
• Red flags: confusion, unsteady walking, breathlessness at rest, frothy cough. Descend immediately and seek medical help. Severe altitude sickness can be fatal.

Health and vaccinations

No vaccinations are legally required for entry, but yellow fever vaccination is strongly recommended for travel to the Amazon (Iquitos, Puerto Maldonado, Tambopata, Manu) and may be required by neighbouring countries on onward travel. Hepatitis A, typhoid, and routine vaccinations are standard travel recommendations. Malaria risk is restricted to specific Amazon zones; speak to a travel medicine clinic. Dengue is increasingly present in the Amazon and along the coast.

Water and food safety

Tap water is not safe to drink anywhere in Peru. Use bottled or filtered water for drinking and brushing teeth. Be cautious with ice in smaller establishments. Salads washed in tap water are a common cause of stomach upsets. Choose busy stalls and restaurants where turnover is high.

Connectivity

Local SIMs (Claro, Movistar, Entel) are easy to buy at airports and in city centres for around S/ 20–50 (≈ €5–13) including a starter data package. Passport required for registration. eSIMs from international providers also work. Coverage is excellent in cities, patchy in the highlands. Mostly absent in the deep Amazon.

Safety

Most tourist areas are safe with normal precautions. The biggest risks are opportunistic theft (pickpocketing, distraction scams in Lima's Centro and around Cusco's Plaza de Armas) and unlicensed taxis. Use Uber or hotel-arranged taxis in Lima at night. Avoid carrying more cash than you need. Keep a backup card separately. Demonstrations and roadblocks occur occasionally in the southern Andes and can disrupt transport for 1–3 days. Check current advisories before long bus journeys.

• Underestimating altitude. Arriving directly into Cusco (3,399 m) without acclimatisation is the single most common mistake. Plan a slower ascent through Arequipa and Puno, or build 1–2 rest days into Cusco before any hike.
• Booking Machu Picchu late. Entry tickets sell out 2–4 weeks ahead in dry season. Huayna Picchu and Inca Trail permits sell out 3–6 months ahead. Lock these in before the rest of the itinerary.
• Trying to do both south and north in two weeks. Peru's distances are long. Two solid weeks is enough for either the south circuit or the north circuit, not both.
• Eating ceviche on day one in the Andes. Raw fish + altitude + travel fatigue is a bad combination. Save coastal seafood for the coast.
• Skipping travel insurance. Medical evacuation from the Amazon or above 4,000 m is expensive. Make sure your policy covers high-altitude trekking and rabies post-exposure.
• Carrying too much cash. ATMs are reliable in towns. S/ 200–400 (≈ €50–100) in mixed small notes per couple is enough cash for a few days outside cities.
• Choosing the wrong Amazon lodge. Tambopata from Puerto Maldonado is the easy first jungle. Iquitos/Pacaya-Samiria is the deeper, wilder option. Choose for your travel style, not by price alone.
• Not booking the right Machu Picchu train. Pre-dawn trains from Ollantaytambo are cheaper and let you reach the gate before the crowds. Late-morning trains arrive after the busiest entry window.
• Forgetting cash for small fees. Park entries, small museums, and the bus from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu are sometimes cash-only.
• Trying to push through altitude sickness. If symptoms are getting worse, descend. It is not a test of willpower.
• Overpacking. Lima storage at your starting hotel is easy. Pack like you'll move every two days. Because you probably will.
• Booking domestic flights too tight. Lima–Cusco and Cusco–Puerto Maldonado are weather-affected. Leave a buffer night in Lima before any international flight home.

Peru is a strong fit for couples who want one country to give them genuinely different landscapes. Coast, mountains and jungle. Alongside a deep cultural backbone. Two weeks is the realistic minimum to do the classic south circuit at a comfortable pace. Three weeks unlocks either the Amazon or the northern Cordillera Blanca without rushing.

Start your planning around Machu Picchu entry tickets and your preferred trek (if any), then build the rest of the route outward from Cusco.