Iceland

Iceland is a volcanic island in the North Atlantic with a population smaller than most mid-sized European cities. Around 380,000 people live here, two-thirds of them in the Reykjavik capital area. The rest of the country is largely empty. Glaciers cover about 11% of the land. Active volcanoes sit beneath ice caps. Geothermal energy heats almost every home. And the entire island sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, literally splitting apart between two tectonic plates at about 2.5 centimetres a year.

The landscape is unlike anything else in Europe. Black sand beaches where waves have killed tourists who stood too close. Glacier lagoons where icebergs drift out to sea. Waterfalls that come off every cliff and ridge. Lava fields covered in thick moss that took centuries to grow and gets destroyed in seconds by anyone who steps on it. Geothermal areas where the ground steams, mud boils, and the air smells of sulphur. And in the highlands, a volcanic desert so barren that NASA used it to train Apollo astronauts.

The Ring Road (Route 1) loops 1,322 km around the entire island and is the backbone of most trips. About 95% of it is paved. Ten days is the comfortable minimum for the full loop. South of the Ring Road, the interior highlands are a separate world entirely, accessible only by 4WD on F-roads that open for a few weeks each summer. The Westfjords, a remote peninsula in the northwest, feel like a different country altogether.

Iceland is expensive. Genuinely, thoroughly, consistently expensive. A restaurant meal runs 3,000 to 6,000 ISK (20 to 40 EUR). A beer in a Reykjavik bar costs 1,500 ISK (10 EUR). A basic guesthouse room starts around 18,000 ISK (120 EUR) per night in summer. But the best things in Iceland are free. Every waterfall, every glacier view, every black sand beach, every Northern Lights display, every geothermal area you can walk through without a ticket booth. The country rewards the traveller who camps, cooks from the supermarket, and drives past the paid attractions to find the unmarked hot spring nobody else is at.

Safety is excellent. Iceland has been ranked the safest country in the world for years. There is virtually no violent crime. The police are unarmed. The real dangers are all environmental: weather that changes in minutes, waves that sweep people off beaches, roads that close without warning, and river crossings that can turn a rental car into a very expensive submarine. Respect nature, check road.is and vedur.is every morning, and you will be fine.

Iceland sits in the North Atlantic, just south of the Arctic Circle. The Ring Road (Route 1) traces the coastline in a 1,322 km loop. Most of the population and infrastructure clusters along the south and west coasts, while the east, north, and interior are increasingly remote. The Westfjords peninsula in the northwest is connected to the mainland by a single road and feels like a separate island.

Iceland has two fundamentally different travel seasons, and they offer completely different experiences. Summer means midnight sun, all roads open, puffins, hiking, and peak prices. Winter means Northern Lights, ice caves, snow-covered lava fields, and the constant possibility that a storm will cancel your plans. The shoulder months of May and September split the difference and are often the smartest choice.

Climate & Weather

Iceland has a maritime subarctic climate that earns its reputation for unpredictability. The weather can and does change multiple times within a single hour. The saying goes: if you do not like the weather, wait five minutes. It is not a joke.

Temperature. Milder than most people expect. Reykjavik averages 11–14°C in summer and 0–3°C in winter. The north is slightly cooler. The highlands are significantly colder, with freezing temperatures possible even in July at higher elevations. The Gulf Stream keeps the coastal areas surprisingly temperate for a country this far north.

Wind. The single most underestimated factor. Sustained winds of 15–25 m/s are common, and gusts above 35 m/s happen regularly in autumn and winter. Wind can blow car doors off hinges. It can knock you off your feet near cliff edges. It drives sand and ash that strips paint off rental cars. Always check the wind forecast on vedur.is before driving.

Rain and snow. The south coast is significantly wetter than the north. Reykjavik gets around 800mm of rain annually. The north and east are drier and sunnier. Snow covers most of the country from November through March, though coastal lowlands may only get intermittent snow.

Daylight. This is the variable that shapes your trip more than anything else. In mid-June, the sun barely dips below the horizon and it never gets truly dark. In mid-December, you get roughly 4–5 hours of daylight. September and March offer approximately 12 hours of light.

Seasons & Temperatures

Iceland has two distinct seasons with transitional shoulder periods.

Summer (June–August)

Midnight sun, 24-hour daylight, all roads open including F-roads into the highlands. Temperatures average 10–15°C in lowland areas but can reach 20°C on rare warm days. The entire country comes alive. Puffins nest on coastal cliffs. Wildflowers cover the lava fields. Highland huts and campsites open. This is the only time to attempt the Laugavegur trek or drive into the interior. The trade-off is peak prices, booked-out accommodation, and no Northern Lights.

Winter (November–March)

Short days, long nights, Northern Lights, ice caves inside glaciers, and snow-covered landscapes. Temperatures hover around 0°C on the coast but can drop to -15°C inland. F-roads close completely. The Ring Road stays officially open but storms can shut sections for days. You need winter driving experience, full insurance, and a flexible itinerary. The upside: accommodation prices drop significantly, tourist sites are empty, and the ice caves inside Vatnajökull are only accessible now.

Shoulder Seasons (May and September–October)

The smart choice for many travellers. May brings 17–20 hours of daylight, puffins arriving at their colonies, and fewer crowds. Some highland roads may still be closed by snow. September offers the first Northern Lights, autumn colours in the east, quieter roads, lower prices, and most routes still open. October is a gamble: beautiful if the weather cooperates, but winter storms can arrive early.

Iceland has relatively few public holidays compared to continental Europe, but the ones that exist are taken seriously. Banks, government offices, and most shops close. Accommodation around major festivals books out early, especially during Verslunarmannahelgi (the August long weekend), when the entire nation seems to be at a music festival somewhere in the countryside.

National Public Holidays

Major Festivals & Events

Iceland splits into eight distinct areas, each with its own character. The Ring Road connects most of them in a 1,322 km loop. The south and west see the most visitors, the east and Westfjords the fewest, and the highlands are a different world altogether.

Reykjavik & Capital Area

The northernmost capital and one of the smallest. The entire centre is walkable in an hour but it punches above its weight with a thriving food scene, music culture, and nightlife. Hallgrímskirkja and Harpa are the landmarks. Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon make popular day trips.

Best for: City culture, dining, nightlife

Golden Circle & South Coast

Iceland’s greatest-hits loop. Þingvellir’s tectonic rift, Strokkur geyser erupting every few minutes, Gullfoss thundering into its canyon. Continue east along Route 1 for Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, and the black sand of Reynisfjara. Fully paved, all spectacular.

Best for: First-time visitors, photography. Allow 2–4 days.

Southeast & Glacier Country

Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, dominates the landscape. Icebergs drift through Jökulsárlón lagoon and wash up as diamonds on black sand. Glacier tongues reach almost to the road. Guided ice walks from Skaftafell year-round, ice caves November through March.

Best for: Ice adventures, dramatic scenery. Beware sandstorms on outwash plains.

East Fjords

The least visited region and one of the most beautiful. Narrow fjords, steep mountain passes, fishing villages at the end of long inlets. Seyðisfjörður’s rainbow street, Petra’s eccentric stone collection, and Iceland’s only wild reindeer. Budget extra time for winding gravel roads.

Best for: Solitude and slow travel. Thin infrastructure.

North Iceland & Mývatn

A geothermal hotspot centred on Mývatn lake with volcanic craters, bubbling mud pools, and lava labyrinths. Húsavík is the whale watching capital, Dettifoss shakes the ground, and Akureyri is a surprisingly pleasant second city. Drier and often sunnier than the south.

Best for: Volcanics, wildlife, whale watching. Base: Akureyri.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

“Iceland in miniature.” Glaciers, lava fields, beaches, fishing villages, and sea cliffs packed into a single peninsula. Kirkjufell is the most photographed mountain in the country. The Hellnar–Arnarstapi coastal walk is one of the best short hikes anywhere.

Best for: Day trip or 2-day loop from Reykjavik (2.5h drive).

Westfjords

Remote, sparsely populated, mostly gravel roads. Dynjandi is arguably Iceland’s most beautiful waterfall. Látrabjarg cliffs let you photograph puffins at arm’s length. Hornstrandir Nature Reserve has no roads, no inhabitants, and is reachable only by boat from Ísafjörður.

Best for: Off-the-beaten-path adventure. Allow 3–4 days minimum.

The Highlands

Vast uninhabited interior with no settlements, no services, and no mobile signal. Coloured rhyolite mountains at Landmannalaugar, the world-class Laugavegur Trek, and volcanic craters at Askja. F-roads only, 4WD mandatory, accessible June through September. Register at safetravel.is.

Best for: Experienced trekkers and volcanic landscapes.

Iceland's sightseeing is dominated by natural landmarks rather than built attractions. Most are free. The challenge is not finding things to see but deciding what to skip when your time runs out. This list covers the highlights not already detailed in the regional sections above.

Gullfoss

Iceland’s most iconic waterfall drops 32 metres in two dramatic steps into a narrow canyon. The sheer volume of glacial water from the Hvítá river is mesmerising, and in winter the surrounding rocks coat in ice while the falls keep thundering. A short walk from the car park on the Golden Circle. Free entry. The spray soaks everything, so waterproofs are essential. In sunshine a permanent rainbow arcs across the gorge.

Strokkur & Geysir

Strokkur erupts every 5–10 minutes, shooting boiling water 15–30 metres into the air. The original Geysir (which gave all geysers their name) is mostly dormant but the surrounding geothermal field of bubbling pools and steam vents is otherworldly. Free entry on the Golden Circle. Stand upwind to avoid the sulphur-scented steam. The blue bubble that forms just before eruption is the moment to photograph.

Þingvellir National Park

A UNESCO World Heritage Site where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates visibly pull apart, creating a rift valley of fissures and cliffs. The Icelandic parliament (Alþingi) was founded here in 930 AD, making it one of the oldest parliamentary sites on Earth. Walk between the continental plates along the Almannagjá gorge. Free entry, parking 750 ISK. The Silfra fissure for snorkelling is within the park.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Icebergs calve from Breiðamerkurjökull glacier and drift across a lagoon that has quadrupled in size since the 1970s. The ice comes in shades of white, blue, and volcanic black. Zodiac boat tours (~8,000 ISK, 40 min) weave between the bergs. Seals bob in the water between the ice. Free to visit from shore. The lagoon connects to the ocean through a narrow channel where the icebergs eventually float out to sea.

Seljalandsfoss

A 60-metre waterfall you can walk completely behind on a path that loops around the cliff face. The view from behind the curtain of water, looking out through the cascade at the green plains beyond, is unforgettable. Waterproofs are not optional. Just north along the same cliff, the hidden Gljúfrabúi waterfall pours into a narrow canyon you can wade into. Parking 800 ISK. Open year-round but the path behind freezes and closes in winter.

Skógafoss

A perfectly rectangular 60-metre waterfall that is 25 metres wide, crashing onto a flat black-sand plain. Walk right up to the base and feel the power. A metal staircase climbs to the top, where you can continue along the Fimmvörðuháls trail past 26 more waterfalls. Double rainbows form here on sunny days with reliable frequency. Free entry and parking. One of the south coast’s must-stops, visible from the Ring Road.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

A dramatic beach of jet-black volcanic sand backed by hexagonal basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar sea stacks rising from the surf. The basalt cave of Hálsanefshellir is a natural cathedral of geometric rock. Extremely dangerous sneaker waves surge far up the beach without warning and have killed visitors. Never turn your back to the ocean. Never walk close to the waterline. The power and beauty exist in equal measure here.

Dettifoss

Europe’s most powerful waterfall by volume, dropping 44 metres with a flow rate that shakes the ground beneath your feet. The grey glacial water explodes into a canyon of black lava rock, sending up a permanent cloud of mist visible from kilometres away. In Vatnajökull National Park in the northeast. The east bank (road 864, unpaved) gives the best viewpoint. The west bank (road 862, paved) is an easier drive. Free. Used as a filming location in Prometheus.

Svartifoss

A slender waterfall surrounded by hanging basalt columns that inspired the design of Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavik. Located in Skaftafell, part of Vatnajökull National Park. A well-marked 5.5 km loop trail from the visitor centre takes 1.5–2 hours. The basalt columns fracture and fall over time, creating a bed of black hexagonal debris below the falls. Best combined with glacier views from nearby Sjónarskér viewpoint.

Goðafoss

The Waterfall of the Gods, named for the Norse idols thrown into it in 1000 AD when Iceland converted to Christianity. A wide, 12-metre-high horseshoe of cascades on the Skjálfandafljót river in north Iceland. Less tall than the south coast waterfalls but broader and more graceful. Viewpoints on both banks. Easily accessible from the Ring Road between Akureyri and Mývatn. Free. Spectacular in winter when partially frozen and framed by ice.

Hallgrímskirkja

Reykjavik’s landmark church and Iceland’s tallest building at 74.5 metres. The expressionist concrete facade is designed to resemble basalt columns. The tower observation deck (1,200 ISK) gives a panoramic view over Reykjavik’s colourful rooftops, the harbour, and on clear days across to Snæfellsjökull glacier 120 km away. The statue of Leifur Eiríksson in front was a gift from the United States in 1930. Free to enter the church itself.

Diamond Beach

Icebergs that float out of Jökulsárlón lagoon wash up on this black volcanic sand beach, where they sit like enormous jewels catching the light. The contrast of translucent ice against jet-black sand is mesmerising, especially at sunrise or sunset when the ice glows gold and pink. Each piece is unique and constantly changing as it melts. Walk among them but do not climb on them. Free. Just across the road from Jökulsárlón. Best in winter when the ice is larger.

Iceland has a population the size of a small European city, yet it produces a disproportionate amount of music, literature, and creative output. The saga tradition runs deep. Most Icelanders still read the medieval sagas, and modern Icelandic literature is thriving. The music scene produced Björk, Sigur Rós, and a steady stream of bands that punch above what a country of 380,000 should produce.

Culture

Dishes to Try

Iceland has some of the most spectacular hiking in Europe, from 30-minute waterfall walks to multi-day highland treks. Trails are generally unmarked or minimally marked outside of national parks. Weather changes fast. Bring layers, waterproofs, and good boots even for short hikes. Registration at safetravel.is is recommended for anything beyond simple day walks.

Top Hikes

Activities

Water defines Iceland more than any other element. Geothermal hot springs, glacier-fed lagoons, whale-rich oceans, and a tectonic fissure with some of the clearest water on Earth. Whether you want to soak, snorkel, kayak, or watch whales breach, water activities are central to the Icelandic experience.

Off the Beaten Path

In a country this small, nothing stays truly hidden forever. But these spots see a fraction of the crowds compared to the Golden Circle and south coast, and they offer experiences just as good or better.

Iceland has relatively few land animal species but the ones it has are distinctive. No reptiles, no amphibians, no native land mammals except the Arctic fox. The surrounding ocean, however, teems with marine life. Birdlife is exceptional, especially seabird colonies. The landscape itself is the real wildlife: volcanic, glacial, and geothermal forces constantly reshaping the terrain.

The essential Iceland trip. A complete loop of Route 1 around the island, covering the Golden Circle, south coast waterfalls, glacier lagoon, east fjords, Mývatn, Akureyri, and Snæfellsnes. Works in any 2WD car with paved-road tires. Best from June to early September. This is the recommended route for first-time visitors.

Budget estimate: 350,000–550,000 ISK per person (~2,300–3,600 EUR). Includes rental car, fuel, accommodation (mix of guesthouses and camping), food, and key activities. Does not include international flights.

The short trip for travellers who only have a few days or are stopping in Iceland on the way somewhere else. Covers the highlights within easy reach of Reykjavik. No highland roads, no remote areas, fully paved throughout. Works year-round, though winter requires flexible timing due to weather and limited daylight.

Budget estimate: 180,000–280,000 ISK per person (~1,200–1,800 EUR). Includes rental car, fuel, accommodation, food, and main activities.

The comprehensive trip for travellers who want to go beyond the standard Ring Road. Adds the Westfjords and extra time for hikes, hot springs, and detours. Requires a 4WD vehicle if including any highland or Westfjords gravel roads. Best from mid-June to mid-August when all roads are open and the Baldur ferry runs regularly.

Budget estimate: 500,000–750,000 ISK per person (~3,300–5,000 EUR). Includes 4WD rental, fuel, accommodation, food, activities, and the Baldur ferry.

Iceland is a driving country. Public transport outside Reykjavik is minimal. The Ring Road is the backbone, and a rental car gives you the freedom to stop when and where you want. That said, the driving conditions, insurance landscape, and road types require more thought than a typical European road trip.

Transport Options at a Glance

Rental Cars

• 2WD vs 4WD. A 2WD car handles the Ring Road and all paved roads fine in summer. If you want to visit the Westfjords, any significant gravel roads, or the highlands (F-roads), you need a 4WD with high clearance. F-roads are legally restricted to 4WD vehicles and your insurance is void if you take a 2WD onto one
• Insurance. Icelandic rental car insurance is complex and important. CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) is standard but has a high excess (200,000–350,000 ISK). SCDW (Super CDW) reduces the excess. SAAP (Sand and Ash Protection) covers sand/ash storm damage and is essential for the south coast outwash plains. GP (Gravel Protection) covers windshield and body damage from gravel roads. Theft protection is unnecessary in Iceland
• Fuel. Fuel stations are spaced along the Ring Road but gaps of 200+ km exist in the east and north. Always fill up when you can. Most stations are unmanned and require a credit card with a PIN. Some only accept chip-and-PIN cards. Fuel costs around 300–350 ISK per litre
• Rental companies. Book at least 2–3 months ahead for summer. Prices rise steeply from June through August. Compare on northbound.is or guide to iceland. Local companies (Blue Car Rental, Lotus, Lava Car) are often cheaper than international chains. Pick up and drop off at Keflavík airport

Driving Conditions

• Speed limits. 50 km/h in towns, 80 km/h on gravel roads, 90 km/h on paved roads. Speed cameras are common and fines are severe (starting at 15,000 ISK)
• Road conditions. Check road.is every morning. It shows real-time road conditions, closures, and weather warnings for every route in the country. Roads close without warning in winter storms and occasionally in summer for flooding
• Single-lane bridges. The Ring Road has many single-lane bridges, especially in the south and east. The car closest to the bridge has right of way. Slow down well in advance
• Sheep on roads. From June through September, sheep roam freely across roads everywhere outside Reykjavik. They are unpredictable and will dart in front of your car. If you hit a sheep, you must report it and pay compensation to the farmer
• Wind. Hold car doors firmly when opening, especially on the south coast and highland areas. Wind can rip doors off hinges. Park facing into the wind when possible

Other Transport

• Domestic flights. Icelandair and Eagle Air fly from Reykjavik domestic airport to Akureyri (45 min), Ísafjörður (40 min), Egilsstaðir (1h), and Vestmannaeyjar (25 min). Useful for saving time on long drives
• Buses. Streto runs the Reykjavik city bus system. Long-distance buses (Strato and SBA) connect major towns along the Ring Road in summer but are slow and infrequent. Highland buses to Landmannalaugar and Askja run from mid-June to early September
• Ferries. Baldur ferry between Stykkishólmur and Brjanslaekur (Westfjords), stopping at Flatey island. Herjolfur ferry to Vestmannaeyjar from Landeyjahöfn (35 min). Both accept cars
• Hitchhiking. Possible in summer along the Ring Road. Wait times can be long in the east and north. Iceland is extremely safe for hitchhiking but not particularly efficient compared to a rental car

Iceland is expensive by any standard. It consistently ranks among the most expensive countries in the world for travellers. But the severity depends entirely on your travel style. Camping and cooking from supermarkets cuts costs dramatically. The best natural attractions are free. Budget travellers can manage, but they need to plan.

Money-Saving Tips

Entry & Visas

Iceland is part of the Schengen Area. EU/EEA citizens enter freely with an ID card or passport. Citizens of the US, Canada, UK, Australia, Japan, and many other countries get 90 days visa-free within the Schengen zone. Check your specific nationality requirements before travel. ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) will be required for visa-exempt travellers once implemented.

Getting There

• By air. Keflavík International Airport (KEF), 50 km from Reykjavik, is the main hub. Icelandair, PLAY, and various European/North American airlines fly in. Icelandair offers free stopovers on transatlantic flights. Reykjavik domestic airport handles internal flights
• By sea. The Smyril Line ferry Norröna sails weekly from Hirtshals (Denmark) via the Faroe Islands to Seyðisfjörður in the East Fjords. The crossing takes about 2 days. You can bring a car. It is slow and not cheap but an interesting alternative

Health & Safety

• Healthcare. Iceland has excellent healthcare. EU/EEA citizens should carry an EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) or GHIC for reduced-cost treatment. Travel insurance with medical coverage is strongly recommended for everyone. Mountain rescue and helicopter evacuation costs can be enormous without insurance
• Water. Tap water is among the purest in the world. Drink it everywhere. Do not buy bottled water. Hot water from the tap may smell of sulphur (geothermal) but is safe. Run the cold tap for a few seconds before drinking if the smell bothers you
• No dangerous animals. No snakes, no venomous insects, no dangerous land animals. The only hazard is Arctic tern dive-bombing near nests in summer

Communication

• Mobile coverage. Good along the Ring Road and in towns. Patchy to non-existent in the highlands, Westfjords interior, and remote areas. Síminn, Vodafone, and Nova are the main providers. A local prepaid SIM costs around 2,000–3,000 ISK with data
• WiFi. Available at most accommodation, cafés, and even some campsites. Generally reliable
• Emergency. Dial 112 for all emergencies. Download the 112 Iceland app, which lets you send your GPS location to rescue services with one tap

Language

Icelandic is the official language and has barely changed since medieval times. Virtually all Icelanders speak fluent English. You do not need any Icelandic for travel. That said, learning to pronounce place names will help you navigate and earn goodwill. A few useful ones: Þ (þ) is "th" as in "thick", Ð (ð) is "th" as in "the", Æ (æ) is "eye", and double L is "tl".

Packing Essentials

• Waterproof outer layer (jacket and trousers) with sealed seams
• Warm mid-layers (fleece, down jacket). Layering is essential
• Good hiking boots with ankle support, broken in before the trip
• Swimsuit (for hot springs and pools, used almost daily)
• Sunglasses and sunscreen (the UV at this latitude is deceptive)
• Reusable water bottle (tap water is free and excellent everywhere)
• Power bank (long drives, cold weather drains batteries)
• Eye mask (for sleeping during midnight sun in summer)

Common Mistakes

• Underestimating distances. The Ring Road is 1,322 km but takes far longer than you think. Speed limits, single-lane bridges, photo stops, and winding roads mean 300 km takes 4–5 hours. Do not plan more than 300 km of driving per day
• Skipping insurance. A basic 2WD rental without full insurance runs 200,000–350,000 ISK excess if something goes wrong. Get CDW, SCDW, GP, and SAAP at minimum
• Walking on moss. The thick green moss covering lava fields takes decades to grow back when damaged. Stay on marked paths and boardwalks. This is taken very seriously in Iceland
• Not checking weather and roads. vedur.is for weather forecasts, road.is for road conditions. Check both every morning. Conditions change fast. Roads close without warning. Plans need flexibility
• Overbooking the itinerary. Trying to see everything in 5 days leads to exhausting drives and rushed stops. Better to see fewer things properly than everything through a car window

Smart Tips

• Book early. Summer accommodation books out months ahead. Glacier walks, whale watching, Blue Lagoon, Silfra snorkelling, and Laugavegur huts sell out even earlier. Book as soon as your dates are confirmed
• Fill up at every fuel station. Especially in the east and north. Gaps between stations can be 200+ km. Carry a fuel card or credit card with PIN
• Buy alcohol duty-free. The duty-free shop at Keflavík airport arrivals is by far the cheapest place to buy alcohol in Iceland. Do not skip it if you drink
• Download offline maps. Google Maps and maps.me both work offline. Mobile signal disappears in many areas. Download the entire country before you leave Reykjavik
• Bring a waterproof phone case. Between waterfalls, rain, and hot springs, your phone will encounter water daily
• Register at safetravel.is. Free travel plan registration. If you do not return on time, search and rescue will know where to look for you. Especially important for highland travel and hiking
• Use public hot pots. The municipal swimming pools are where Icelanders socialise. Entry is 1,100 ISK. Shower naked before entering (enforced). Sit in the hot pots, talk to locals, slow down. This is more authentically Icelandic than any tourist attraction

If you have 10 days, drive the Ring Road in September. You will see the entire country's greatest hits, catch the first Northern Lights of the season, enjoy lower prices and thinner crowds, and still have most roads open. Rent a mid-size 2WD with full insurance, camp half the nights, cook from Bonus supermarkets, and spend your money on a glacier walk and a whale watching trip instead of restaurants.

If you only have 5 days, stick to the Golden Circle and south coast. Do not try to rush the Ring Road. You will spend all your time driving and see nothing properly.

If you have 14 days and a taste for remote places, add the Westfjords. They are the least visited, most dramatic part of Iceland, and the effort to get there filters out the crowds.

Whatever you do, check road.is and vedur.is every morning. Carry layers. Never underestimate the wind. And visit at least one public swimming pool. That is where Iceland actually happens.